Chingis (Genghis) Khan sits in the central square of Ulaanbaatar with his progeny Ogedei Khan enthroned on his right and Kublai Khan enthroned on his left, at each end of this memorial. As Chingis sits, all of Mongolia passes under his bronzed eyes. I too have passed many times beneath him, on balmy summer eves and frigid winter nights. And one night . . . he winked one of those bronze eyes.