The ocean is unhappy. As we eat breakfast on the terrace we notice a thick smog sitting above the horizon, blocking out the sun. We can smell that sea smell, all the way from our balcony at level with the Anti-Atlas mountains. It has been stormy for the past few days and today it is hot, like the ocean has opened and let out a breath of warm, pungent vapour. The beaches here are not clean. I walk to the beach and watch a diffused sunset through the fog. A small boy strolls past, stark against it