As wild and pristine a place as I’ve found. Now inaccessible, I hear. Glaciers are strange beasts—grinding rock from the landscape to create the black streak of rubble-covered ice in the background. Yet the white ice & green water reflect colors of purity, heavy with fine flour from the glacier mill, but with almost no organic carbon yet. Lake didn’t exist in 1984. 2013: Glacier retreated 800m; lake 1800m long. Friends 11-days-rafting Alsek River thru largest designated wilderness in world.