This pic was taken with a waterproof 20mp action camera from inside a wave at the precise time the salt, sand and sea broke to the beach. The technique is timing and guts. In order to get a perfect shot in the surf you must understand that you will be tackled. The best way to describe this if you can is to imagine a punt receiver in football awaiting a punt, the moment the football touches the receiver’s hands and all his concentration is focuse on the ball, he gets blindsided by the defense.