At the heart of the White Mountains sierra, island of Crete, Greece. After a two days through-hike of the sierra, my feet hurt but I feel my horizons expanded and my soul peaceful. On the first day, we saw just a handful of people (mostly shepherds) and on the second noone. Just plain rock, thorn bushes and the vastness of the mountains in a post-apocalyptic scenery. The locals call it Madara (from the greek word "madaros" that means bold, without hair), others call it the "mountain desert".