This traditional form of wrestling in India was promoted by Moguls and Indian rulers, combining mud-fighting with Persian martial arts. A shaft of light peeks through the doorway of a 100-year-old gym in Kolhapur, Maharashtra. Two giant men step across a stone floor worn smooth by generations of sweat and dirt, and into a pit of maroon clay that crunches like sand underfoot. Even in fast-changing India, this sport remains a wellspring of individual power, family pride and regional identity.