Smoke and flies thicken the air inside this "mkahawa", a basic village canteen that is replicated - with little variation - across tropical Africa. The limited offerings make menus unnecessary. Visit a few and you'll know what to ask for: chapatis, andazis (deep fried corn buns), beans, beef or goat stew with soggy rice, and some milky tea served in a chipped mug. If you prefer cold soda, it can usually be fetched from a nearby shop. If you say Grace, pray the staff have washed their hands.