Not far east of the giant, cloud-shrouded Rwenzori Mountains lies a gentler landscape where fisher birds swoop down on the calm surfaces of a dozen small lakes, most formed by craters. The rolling hills on every side support tea farms, as well as a cluster of tourist lodges that struggle with the effects of their isolation and the area's reputation for high rainfall. The big draw as far as tourists are concerned is the handful of chimpanzee families residing in Kibale Forest nearby.