These days, every stroll I take along Diani Beach yields images of increasing desperation, a mood the gathering monsoon clouds do nothing to alleviate. These are not the happy faces of Zanzibar that I recorded in February. The tourists in Kenya were patchy this past Christmas, and now they are virtually gone. Having failed to sell their coconuts, these rag-clad "beach boys" - mostly coastal Muslims from the Digo tribe - beg me for a bus fare to go home, though I know they live a short walk away.