Kangwa, a tall khaki-clad ebony faced man, lead the way. We were accompanied by a suitably armed ‘minister of defence’ and tracker - Clever Kamitondo who walked out front, scouting the terrain ensuring our safe passage. Kangwa regularly touched the paprika coloured soil then looked to the horizon, his eyes burned bright and sharp, like the eyes of an old rooster. A herd of rhino had passed by here recently, we must take care.