To get to Balmaha, I had to climb over a hill. It was getting dark and my feet were sore. My final destination, Fort William, was a further 83 miles away. I was ready to concede that I was mad to attempt the 95 mile hike. But as I approach the summit of Conic Hill, Loch Lomond came into view. The rain had stopped and sunlight pierced through the dark clouds, onto the loch's misty surface. I stood in awe. And at that very moment, I knew I cannot allow myself to give up.