As for many other divers, for me a pilgrimage to Sipadan wasn't a question of if but when. Taking a boat across the glimmering blue seas from Semporna to Mabul on the way to the remote island itself gave breathtaking views of the hilly Borneo stretching across the horizon.And the Bajau, although now few and rare to see in their traditional boats always served as a stark reminder about both the astounding beauty of the sea and the fragility of this ecosystem, where man was once at one with it.