Sitting in the open-sided safari vehicle, the driver turned the engine off, the only sound was the call of hyenas, a strange squeaking, we were surrounded by them it seemed, but then eyes strained at the waterhole in front of us we heard and smelt elephants. We held our breath trying to focus on the red light the guide was shining back and forth at the water until there they were, a herd of maybe twelve African giants illuminated in scarlet, drinking almost silently before us.